Highlights from LCM fall/winter 2016 — Day 3
J.W.Anderson created his most stylish collection yet, Alexander McQueen went back to basics and, Moschino payed tribute to pop art
Snails, snails and more snails. Snail motifs appeared as a pattern in all sizes on many an ensemble in the playful collection. Cartoon characters were splashed across sheer long-sleeved crewnecks and shirt-jackets with exaggerated lapels, while patterned furs enlivened trusty Macks . Wrestling high-top pointed-toe booties grounded every look.
Jonathan Anderson balanced the scales between covering up with chunky knits , and baring skin with deep V-necks. Between the transparent embellished chokers and the collection’s rakish styling — such as, a purple-grey silk-satin suit worn over a T-shirt — Anderson as always, showcased his own personal paradigm of menswear.
Flared sleeves on wool knits. Experiment by tying a grosgrain ribbon around the sleeves of your jumpers, cinching the ends to create that flare.
As a first, the show was streamed live on the same sex dating app, Grindr.
Mongolia’s lush natures and traditional colours worn by nomadic herders. Christopher Raeburn also harnessed the elusive and endangered snow leopard for prints on knits
Keeping the brand’s aesthetic in tow, the FW16 collection not only featured waterproof anoraks for a Mongolian hike, but there was also a balance of urban flare with knit and jersey jumpers under bomber jackets. Even the bags ranged from camouflage prints to frayed denim, displaying Raeburn’s ability to cater to the urban traveller as well as a nature seeker.
Sarah Burton cited Charles Darwin as a source of inspiration for the collection, and it was entirely palpable with monkey-printed silk tunics and butterfly motif suits kicking off the show.
It was a Victorian affair, with the era’s mainstays — longline jackets, ruffled plackets and waistcoats — the glue of the 32 ensemble collection. True to the label’s gothic sensibilities, monochrome and crimson was the base palette, serving as a blank canvas to the Darwinian insect motifs. Burton’s recreation of the Victorian epoch was so convincing, that the occasional white sneaker actually functioned as a reminder that it was simply a peek into the past — rich history brought to life by the designer’s imagination.
The ornately decorated Durbar Court inside Whitehall’s historic Foreign Office. The tiers of red granite columns and arches contrasted white marble floors, and were tools in the time machine Burton constructed for FW16.
The facial piercings sported by several of the models amplifying the gothic vibes in the cavernous hall where the show took place.
Jeremy Scott sent out a mashup of neon colours, artist-inspired details, and a little bit of punk for his latest men’s collection for Moschino. Scott collaborated with British artists Gilbert & George to have their works displayed on most of the collection, evoking a certain Warholian feel. In summary, it was a hyper colour and print extravaganza and we expected no less from the designer.
Heralding the ’90s punk movement, models sported colourful hair streaks and had bright paint dusted on the ears. So rave party ready.
Boots sprayed and dyed that will function as a much-needed bright to any monochrome ensemble.
Jourdan Dunn closed the show hand in hand with Scott himself, giving him a congratulatory kiss at the end. Male models-of-the-moment Rob Evans and Lucky Blue Smith had their game faces on for the show.
Designer John Ray made sure that there was an outfit for every occassion. Starting off with ensembles inspired by race-car drivers from the 1950s, handsome durable leather coats lined with rich shearling segued into softer silhouettes and luxury blend fabrics — the perfect country weekend ensemble. It ended with a chapter dedicated to evening soirées — or nights at a gentleman’s lounge — with inky smoking jackets cut from exquisite velvet.
The Savile Club was the perfect setting for the Dunhill presentation. Put together to resemble a gentleman’s home, contemporary art filled the space and complemented the clothes perfectly — a cosy nook that echoed sophistication, class and finesse. Models lounged on club chairs, equipped with the essentials of a Dunhill man: An Old Fashioned and a good read.
A pair of reading glasses are the new accessory. Pairing scholarly checks to power pinstripes with dark acetate frames, take a cue from Dunhill FW16 and ease yourself in by popping on a (convincing) pair with a preppy outfit.